New Pants; Vogue 2921

I haven't sewn any pants in probably close to 2 or more years.  Gained weight, lost confidence, lost weight, still no confidence.  The success of the jacket has inspired me to make a pair of slacks to go with it.  Added incentive is that I only have one skirt that goes with the jacket and I think with its length it would look better with pants.  So I bought the fabric, a medium grey suiting from Joann's with a nice weight and drape.  I already had the pattern from more confident days, Vogue 2921.

I can't link to it as it is now Out of Print.  (says how old my pattern stash is getting)

 

It's a Montana designer pattern.  I've got a couple of these but have not sewn any yet.  I just fell in love with this pattern for the seaming on the back of the legs.  The pattern is rated as advanced, which scared me more, but as I said the jacket has the mojo up so I'm striking while the mojo is good.

 

Not being a total fool looking for failure,and not knowing for sure what my "sewing size" is in pants, I decided to do my first muslin.  According to my measurements: waist 30, hips 38, I should have a size 16 waist and 14 hip.  It seemed years ago when I made my last pair of Vogue britches they ran quite a bit big.  So I made a straight 14, with a slight Full Butt Adjustment. (Cutting the back crotch a size 16 for more seat room and back to a 14 at the inseam.  I don't know if that's the proper way, but it works for me usually.)  I just tried them on and am thrilled with the fit!  Surprise!  No further adjustments needed.  I can start cutting real fabric this afternoon.  Yeah!

 

Brodace Jacket Finished!

It's amazing! But yes, it really is finished already,  Even with as slow as I sew! And all those seam finishes, too.  New Look 6920 on Zelda:

 

 

The sleeves were supposed to be 3/4 sleeves on the pattern but once I got those cuffs on they turned out to be full length. I actually prefer them this way.  

the back view

 

A view of all the finish work.  All the seams were treated with a Hong Kong finish, including hem and sleeves.  It looks so neat and tidy inside.

 

A close up of the finish work on the shoulder seam, collar.

 

 The pattern itself was well-constructed and the instructions with very concise.  There were no duh moments; just followed the directions and all went well.  The lower front bands are cut on the bias, as is the collar, but unlike the collar, they are not interfaced.  I did have a little trouble with them trying to twist out of shape.  But careful pinning,sewing and gentle pressing kept all in alignment. All in all I'm very pleased with how this project turned out. It was a big step up for me in several ways and quite the learning experience but not an unpleasant one.  I've mastered Hong Kong finishing and learned to the rudiments to handling brocade.  This is only the second jacket I've made so I still feel like there's a lot more to learn about their construction before I feel accomplished in this.                                                                    

 

As a P.S., I have to say that I was watching and being greatly inspired by the Great British Sewing Bee that  the whole sewing community is abuzz with while sewing this.  The show is so charming, the people so lovely you feel as if you know them. You can't help but watch and get up and go sew.

New Look 6920 and Adventures in Brocade

After a long absence from from blogging but not sewing, I thought it was time to get in here again.  No time like at the beginning of a new project.  On the machine now is New :Look 6920.  I've had this pattern in the stash for years ( It's copywrited 2009.  Yikes!)  I bought it for the jacket, view D: hip-length, princess seams in the bodice, tie front and 3/4 sleeves.  It's time has finally come.

I'll be using this brocade:

I got it for this jacket (probably around 2009 or '10 also) Fabric.com. so it's been ripening in fabric stash for a while.  I just love the play of the light on those blue, silver and gold geometric shapes. 
I've never worked in brocade before so this is a learning experience.

The jacket pattern is unlined but obviously I don't want to traipse around with fraying seams.  I doubt I have the ability to draft a lining for it; and it calls out for something more formal than serged seams.  So with the help of my trusty Vogue Sewing manual, I'm going to use organza Hong Kong seams.  Another new skill for me to learn.  I cut my strips tonight.  Tomorrow I start sewing.  Wish me luck.

New Look Fall/Winter

I finally got a chance to really look over the new offering from New Look for their Fall/Winter pattern collection.  I was really surprised that there were only three items that vaguely interested me.  Of those three items, I was also able to promptly to dissaude myself from adding to my Want List.  Two I already have very similar versions in my pattern collection from different companies already.  The third was a skirt with a lovely waistband detail that will rarely, if ever, be seen as I seldom tuck in my tops. So it would be work to no avail.  That leaves nothing new to be desired and a cabinet full of patterns vying to been sewn already.  So we stick to last year's plan of trying to use what I have more often--both in fabric and patterns. 

A Time to Refocus

I've been pondering shutting this blog down.  It seemed I had lost purpose, vision, and time.  What was I doing?  Why was I doing it and who was I doing it for. 

My sewing has lost some of that purpose and vision as well.  I've worked hard to get the idae of  Sewing With A Plan (SWAP) imbedded into my mind and into my work.  Try to make each piece work with other pieces in my wardrobe.  So far this is slowly becoming the habit. 

To help re-inforce this thought process, I unconscously found myself visting Pattern Review again.  These are such amazing sewists with so much to share.  From incredle knowledge bases to sheer enthusiam and support, they offer so much of their craft gladly to other sewists.  I was never really a poster on the boards but have decided to get my feet wet and have joined one of the sewing support groups.  More on that in another post perhaps.

 But another post about blogging got me thinking about this blog.  When do you call it quits?  Why do you blog?  What's to focus goal--membership or journaling?  So after chewing on these questions for a while, I re-thought my blog purpose.  I will continue to blog. I will continue to blog for an audience of one- me.  A journal of what I'm doing in sewing day to day or week to week.  No pressures and no guilt as there is no audience to try to attract or entertain. 

This is to focus me on what I'm doing an why.  How I'm doing overall.  Hopefully I'll hone my writing skills and perhaps a computer skill or two as they've gone rusty. It's a freer feeling re-starting this time without the pressures.  I'll see it goes......  

Butterick 5563

I've started a new project.  Yoohoo!  Compared to the last few months, I'm on a roll.  This new one is Butterick 5563, view B; pictured on the top far right.  I like the fitted sleeves, loose waist, and low cowl look of the wrapped neck.  

It looks easy and straitforward--only 3 pieces but a real fabric hog.  I got it cut out today and will get sewing time Tuesday.  I'm really excited.  The fabric is a lovely multicolor stripeof rayon jersey knit from Fabric.com. So soft.  Sigh.  When draped on my dress form, Zelda, looked rather like a chic serape.  So I guess my working title will be La Tapa Bonita -- the Pretty Top.

Kimono Envy

This past week has been Tokyo Kimono Week in Japan, their equivalent to Fashion Week here.  Despite the limiting title, their Kimono Week does feature western/modern  fashion as well as kimono.  The modern fashion ranges from anything you'd see on the runway here and in Paris to avante garde, to anime-type fashion.  This post is about the kimono, however, as I simply love the beauty of them, the skill involved in crafting them let alone wearing them.  Obi can have a variety of intricate tying to create lovely designs in back.  It's a beautiful and complicated-looking way to get ready for work in the morning.

This post is about the kimono, however, as I simply love the beauty of them, the skill involved in crafting them let alone wearing them.

Obi can have a variety of intricate tying to create lovely designs in back. I understand the government approves of common daily kimono use. 

 Looks like a beautiful and complicated-looking way to get ready for work in the morning.  I'll stick with work scrubs and home jeans.