Serger Home From the Hospital

I finally broke down and took my serger to the service technician.  I found one very close by me in the next town who charges a reasonable initial fee to boot. First off, a little history.  I bought my serger "gently used" on EBay.  It has given me nothing but fits.  I put it down to operator error since I'd never operated one before.  Like a true geek, I read.  I read the manual.  I bought and read Serger Secrets, then Simple Serger Sewing.  I read the boards on Pattern Review.  Nothing I did would make my stitches look correct.  I finally got tired of banging my head against this wall and took her in.

The verdict:  it wasn't operator error after all.  The tensions were messed up, she needs a tune up, and the needle wasn't striking the throat plate properly.  The sample in the machine was beautiful!  I couldn't wait to get her home and replicate this miracle on my project.  Lo and behold it worked!  Beautiful neat stitches. ( And less noise, too.)

I decided to test it further and changed the thread.  Tempting the evil fates, sure, but I had to know.   Oh no, wobbly over the edge again.  Had I jinxed it?  Broken it already.  I recheck my threading.  Operator error: I didn't have the looper thread properly engaged the tension disc.  Life and stitches are lovely once again.  I finally enjoy my serger.

Lessons learned:  Don't buy major purchases used on EBay.  And  service technicians are our friends.   :)

Trio of Tops

The trio of tops began in a flurry of activity to get ready for Mother's Day.  Had the jacket, the geometric brocade, and  had the pants,  Vogue 2921 that I just finished.  I had cute out one top but realized I was too slow a sewer to get it done in time. Simplicity 1698  had been recently added and had a top that fit the bill.

A simple empire waist, cowl neck top it stitched up in just a couple of hours (and I'm slow).It's a looser fit than most of my knit tops, but very comfy and I really like the cowl neck.  I did sew up the side seams a little higher than indicated on pattern for my own comfort zone--would have left a lot of bra exposed.

The top intended for Mother's Day was another OOP, Simplicity 5595

I've made this before many moons ago for my daughter in other views, but this is the first time to sew one up for me.  Just a simple tank top, view E minus the ties in back.

The fabric is a cotton gauze with metallic finish from Joann's and is light as air; perfect for our muggy summers.  Instead of a neck facing and a turned under hem on the arms, I was able to squeeze out just enough fabric for bias bindings for them.  A much nicer finish I think.

The last of the trio is Simplicity 2181, a variety a twist tops.  I chose to do view C, the sleeveless version with the twist at the waist.  ( Very nice for helping to camouflage a tummy.)

The front has a facing covering the whole bust and a back facing.  I found the directions for attaching the two a little confusing and still not sure I did it "right" but it's done and looks good.  The armholes were the only change I made: using a bound edge instead of turning under and hemming.  I made a size 14 and the pattern states it has no ease.  I found this true in the bust area, but the tummy area is negative ease, probably due to my spreading middle age.  But I like the fit very well. 

So there you have it, a trio of quick tops for summer.  Hope your summer projects are going well.
 

Pants Update

One of my readers emailed me and reminded me that I've been remiss in posting.  Thank you for the re-focus.  I got so caught up in life and sewing I forgot to blog. Sorry y'all, bad me. I'll try to catch things up a bit.  The pants are done and I really enjoy them

 

The fashion fabric, a lightweight grey suiting from Joann's, was just a tad roomier than the muslin was but the fit is still good.  I love the deep pockets on these things.  Holds my phone and keys no problem.

 

The backside has the seaming going down the center of the back of the leg, the main feature about these pants I liked.  That turned out just right.   The waistband is narrow and comfortable but next time could stand about ¼-½ inch or so out of center back seam to prevent slight gaping when sitting.   The directions for the front fly went so smoothly they should go in my reference files. All in all, I'm really pleased and will probably make these up again.  Sorry again for slacking. :)

Next up ...the trio of tops.

New Pants; Vogue 2921

I haven't sewn any pants in probably close to 2 or more years.  Gained weight, lost confidence, lost weight, still no confidence.  The success of the jacket has inspired me to make a pair of slacks to go with it.  Added incentive is that I only have one skirt that goes with the jacket and I think with its length it would look better with pants.  So I bought the fabric, a medium grey suiting from Joann's with a nice weight and drape.  I already had the pattern from more confident days, Vogue 2921.

I can't link to it as it is now Out of Print.  (says how old my pattern stash is getting)

 

It's a Montana designer pattern.  I've got a couple of these but have not sewn any yet.  I just fell in love with this pattern for the seaming on the back of the legs.  The pattern is rated as advanced, which scared me more, but as I said the jacket has the mojo up so I'm striking while the mojo is good.

 

Not being a total fool looking for failure,and not knowing for sure what my "sewing size" is in pants, I decided to do my first muslin.  According to my measurements: waist 30, hips 38, I should have a size 16 waist and 14 hip.  It seemed years ago when I made my last pair of Vogue britches they ran quite a bit big.  So I made a straight 14, with a slight Full Butt Adjustment. (Cutting the back crotch a size 16 for more seat room and back to a 14 at the inseam.  I don't know if that's the proper way, but it works for me usually.)  I just tried them on and am thrilled with the fit!  Surprise!  No further adjustments needed.  I can start cutting real fabric this afternoon.  Yeah!

 

Brodace Jacket Finished!

It's amazing! But yes, it really is finished already,  Even with as slow as I sew! And all those seam finishes, too.  New Look 6920 on Zelda:

 

 

The sleeves were supposed to be 3/4 sleeves on the pattern but once I got those cuffs on they turned out to be full length. I actually prefer them this way.  

the back view

 

A view of all the finish work.  All the seams were treated with a Hong Kong finish, including hem and sleeves.  It looks so neat and tidy inside.

 

A close up of the finish work on the shoulder seam, collar.

 

 The pattern itself was well-constructed and the instructions with very concise.  There were no duh moments; just followed the directions and all went well.  The lower front bands are cut on the bias, as is the collar, but unlike the collar, they are not interfaced.  I did have a little trouble with them trying to twist out of shape.  But careful pinning,sewing and gentle pressing kept all in alignment. All in all I'm very pleased with how this project turned out. It was a big step up for me in several ways and quite the learning experience but not an unpleasant one.  I've mastered Hong Kong finishing and learned to the rudiments to handling brocade.  This is only the second jacket I've made so I still feel like there's a lot more to learn about their construction before I feel accomplished in this.                                                                    

 

As a P.S., I have to say that I was watching and being greatly inspired by the Great British Sewing Bee that  the whole sewing community is abuzz with while sewing this.  The show is so charming, the people so lovely you feel as if you know them. You can't help but watch and get up and go sew.

New Look 6920 and Adventures in Brocade

After a long absence from from blogging but not sewing, I thought it was time to get in here again.  No time like at the beginning of a new project.  On the machine now is New :Look 6920.  I've had this pattern in the stash for years ( It's copywrited 2009.  Yikes!)  I bought it for the jacket, view D: hip-length, princess seams in the bodice, tie front and 3/4 sleeves.  It's time has finally come.

I'll be using this brocade:

I got it for this jacket (probably around 2009 or '10 also) Fabric.com. so it's been ripening in fabric stash for a while.  I just love the play of the light on those blue, silver and gold geometric shapes. 
I've never worked in brocade before so this is a learning experience.

The jacket pattern is unlined but obviously I don't want to traipse around with fraying seams.  I doubt I have the ability to draft a lining for it; and it calls out for something more formal than serged seams.  So with the help of my trusty Vogue Sewing manual, I'm going to use organza Hong Kong seams.  Another new skill for me to learn.  I cut my strips tonight.  Tomorrow I start sewing.  Wish me luck.

New Look Fall/Winter

I finally got a chance to really look over the new offering from New Look for their Fall/Winter pattern collection.  I was really surprised that there were only three items that vaguely interested me.  Of those three items, I was also able to promptly to dissaude myself from adding to my Want List.  Two I already have very similar versions in my pattern collection from different companies already.  The third was a skirt with a lovely waistband detail that will rarely, if ever, be seen as I seldom tuck in my tops. So it would be work to no avail.  That leaves nothing new to be desired and a cabinet full of patterns vying to been sewn already.  So we stick to last year's plan of trying to use what I have more often--both in fabric and patterns. 

A Time to Refocus

I've been pondering shutting this blog down.  It seemed I had lost purpose, vision, and time.  What was I doing?  Why was I doing it and who was I doing it for. 

My sewing has lost some of that purpose and vision as well.  I've worked hard to get the idae of  Sewing With A Plan (SWAP) imbedded into my mind and into my work.  Try to make each piece work with other pieces in my wardrobe.  So far this is slowly becoming the habit. 

To help re-inforce this thought process, I unconscously found myself visting Pattern Review again.  These are such amazing sewists with so much to share.  From incredle knowledge bases to sheer enthusiam and support, they offer so much of their craft gladly to other sewists.  I was never really a poster on the boards but have decided to get my feet wet and have joined one of the sewing support groups.  More on that in another post perhaps.

 But another post about blogging got me thinking about this blog.  When do you call it quits?  Why do you blog?  What's to focus goal--membership or journaling?  So after chewing on these questions for a while, I re-thought my blog purpose.  I will continue to blog. I will continue to blog for an audience of one- me.  A journal of what I'm doing in sewing day to day or week to week.  No pressures and no guilt as there is no audience to try to attract or entertain. 

This is to focus me on what I'm doing an why.  How I'm doing overall.  Hopefully I'll hone my writing skills and perhaps a computer skill or two as they've gone rusty. It's a freer feeling re-starting this time without the pressures.  I'll see it goes......  

Butterick 5563

I've started a new project.  Yoohoo!  Compared to the last few months, I'm on a roll.  This new one is Butterick 5563, view B; pictured on the top far right.  I like the fitted sleeves, loose waist, and low cowl look of the wrapped neck.  

It looks easy and straitforward--only 3 pieces but a real fabric hog.  I got it cut out today and will get sewing time Tuesday.  I'm really excited.  The fabric is a lovely multicolor stripeof rayon jersey knit from Fabric.com. So soft.  Sigh.  When draped on my dress form, Zelda, looked rather like a chic serape.  So I guess my working title will be La Tapa Bonita -- the Pretty Top.

Kimono Envy

This past week has been Tokyo Kimono Week in Japan, their equivalent to Fashion Week here.  Despite the limiting title, their Kimono Week does feature western/modern  fashion as well as kimono.  The modern fashion ranges from anything you'd see on the runway here and in Paris to avante garde, to anime-type fashion.  This post is about the kimono, however, as I simply love the beauty of them, the skill involved in crafting them let alone wearing them.  Obi can have a variety of intricate tying to create lovely designs in back.  It's a beautiful and complicated-looking way to get ready for work in the morning.

This post is about the kimono, however, as I simply love the beauty of them, the skill involved in crafting them let alone wearing them.

Obi can have a variety of intricate tying to create lovely designs in back. I understand the government approves of common daily kimono use. 

 Looks like a beautiful and complicated-looking way to get ready for work in the morning.  I'll stick with work scrubs and home jeans.

The Nautical Sweater

Yeah!  Real sewing again.  Simple project that's been in my mind for a while with a small variant from ready to wear.  I used Simplicity 2560.  It's been done by everyone, including myself once already, but is so versatile and comfy, and such a quick stitch it's irresitible.

I saw a version a couple of months ago on Coldwater Creek's site but no longer see it now  where the draping on the front was held down with tabs.  Loved it abd knew this was the perfect pattern for it.  So everything is just like the regular pattern except the tabs.  They were borrowed from another pattern as I am so not design savvy like that, along with their directions.

I loved the pulled-back look and as this is for work it makes it even more convenient to access pockets.  The fabric is a very washable knit from Joann's, maybe a french terry not sure.  The buttons are from my stash and I think they give the sweater a nautical look.  I may add one of the jumbo hook/eye closures to the backside of the tabbing for the odd occassions I do want to close it.  I'm very happy with it as is though because it is soooo coooomfy.  And of course the joy of sewing again is priceless.  

Loose Ends

I just wanted to wrap up those dangling loose ends with pictures of the finished products of Simplicity 2501 , the Maggie Blouse.

Here's the finished product. It's one of my favorite tops to wear, I might add.  My neckband has some wave in it so apparently it got stretched some in the construction process as it is cut on the bias.  The waistband and peplum are very figure flattering.  The pattern is one of Simplicity's choose-a-cup multi-size patterns so size adjustments are a breeze.  The only one I had left to do was a forward shoulder adjustment. Nice.

The only thing I was scared of were the ruched sleeved.  But Simplicity has easy directions for that as well.  I love how they came out above.  Kind of channeling the spirit of the forties. They have it marked on the pattern for you to mark on the sleeve where to place elastic then sew over with casing.  Their process was easy if you 're slow and careful.


The other top finished is Simplicity's 2975, the view B top.  This should have flown together pretty quick but I decided to embellish it and then ran completely out of sewing steam ( or steam for anything for that matter).  So once I got done with the mending, I figured I have needle in hand let's go.  It took 3 night of sewing while watching TV to finish it out:

See just a simple yoked smock top.

And there's the embellishment: a simple straight stitch embroidered with the awfullest gold thread to work with ever! and some cute little brass dangly thingies from Joann's. The mottled fabric was a bonus 1yd boo-boo Fabric.com sent with an order.   I fell madly in love it and had to use and found some red cotton to work with it.  I have a pale grey Vera Wang sweater that works with it, too, so I can get some use from it before it turns cold. 

It's Been a Long Time

Oh, it's been such a long time since I've gotten to post much less sew! Life has been very busy and less than ideal. I have stilll managed to lurke about on my favorite sites and people you're been busy doing lovely things.

I'm thrilled to be back at it albeit it is a slow start; at least the engine is revving. I started with the small hill of hill of mending that had accumuulated. Then I finally finished Simplicity 2975. I did up view B, started it before vacation in June and just finished it this week. I know, shameful, as it should be only a few hours worth of sewing a la! done. But, la! no. Life has a way of seriously interjecting. ( I did finish The Maggie Top, too, by the way. ) If no pics tomorrow, then Monday.

We had are carpets cleaned professionally yesterday, finally dry now, so putting things back. Which always gets one to thinking....... So things are being returned in more organized fashion. In particular: husband's office, living room and it's library, and the dining roon that was used as staging area--aka my sewing nook. I'm excited. That's what got the mojo flowing for the first time in months! Yeah, change!

The Maggie Blouse And A Broken Hip

I know it's been a while since I've posted. A family emergency took me out of town for several days and life has been very hectic since leaving no time for sewing at all. My father fell, broke a hip and began a series of complications: heart attack, pneumonia, ventilators, dementia, and one super-stressed out Mom to boot. Life is calming down while he's in rehab but there's still so much to do and so much uncertainty. Aging parents are a scary stage in life, especially when they live several hours away and value their independence.

I was so rattled the trip necessitated a visit to JoAnn's in Cincinnati on the way home for a little retail therapy. I emerged with some celery green sweater knit, a purple poly-charmeuse, and a a funky abstract floral poly-charmeuse from their clearance racks. I also picked up these two cuties while they were one sale.

I've been stealing 10-15 minutes the last 4 days trying make progress on the blouse, which I have done this week. While in Ohio and unable to sew I did think of sewing. I kept thinking this blouse reminded me of something. Then it clicked. Maggie Gyllenhall in The Secretary

The print is bolder, but the peonies with stirrups and chains, demure tucks and pleats really made me think of this movie. So the Maggie Blouse it is. The tie and facing is attached. Tomorrow I should be able to apply the waistband. Slowly but surely, step by step.....

I Got Some New Eye Candy!

I saw this lovely little book at Barnes and Noble several months ago and just couldn't bring myself to get it at that time. My wonderful Mom-in-Law got me a gift card for Joann's for Christmas. Yesterday was the first time I've had a chance to go in since before Christmas. (I know, it's a wonder I didn't go into some kind of withdrawal! ) I checked out Kenneth King's Cool Couture but after really looking at it decided it was probably still beyond my skill set. Then I saw this. I was so happy!

Granted I don't do a lot of hand sewing, but there are times I need it. It soothes me. This little book has several little projects ranging from the cute little tote on the front cover, to a laundry bag, to stockings and ornaments, a various house linens, slippers and garments. I know I'll be doing the stockings and ornaments for next Christmas for sure. The laundry bag intrigues me. Lord knows I need one! There are so many ideas in here. Not just the projects themselves, but I see them being the basis for embellishment on a skirt , or jacket, or blouse. So many ideas.

Now, before you think I'm just goofing off day dreaming with my book, I have been busy on the blouse. The bodice front and back are sewn together, seams serged. I've even had to do a slight sway back adjustment. The back was noticeably 1/2 to 3/4 inches longer than the front. That correction has been made and we're ready to begin with the waistband next sewing timeout, hopefully tomorrow evening.

It's All So Boring.....

It's all so boring but at least it's still sewing-related. So I'm still on track Since last I posted, I've still not been creatively productive, in that I still yet to put the first seam in the Simplicity blouse. All is not in vain, however. The tension has been reset on the sewing machine along with seam samples sewn. The serger has also been re-threaded, no small feat, as it has been a long time since I've done it and I'm still getting acquainted with it. The tensions on it were all screwy for such a silky fabric from the last project done on it in thick cotton so that in itself was a process!

My beloved son honored me with his mending, making my first official completed project for 2011 reattaching the elastic waistband on his boxers. They aren't in bad shape, in fact, nearly new. He merely pulled a thread he shouldn't have. Yes, the thread attaching boxer to elastic, leaving more than half the poor waistband dangling haplessly. Order and support have been restored to the kingdom.

Simplicity just released their new patterns and I have to admit I'm really disappointed in the offering. Everything seems a re-hash, re-release, or just plain boring. The only the that caught my eye was this little pretty:

Of course I have no red carpet event to wear it to, nor any special occasion I can even think of that would be appropriate for such a dress. But I am just mad about all that pleating at the bodice! The slightly trailing train is so glamorous, too. Who wouldn't feel like a movie star in a dress like this? It's so timeless yet modern.

Oh, well. Sigh. Back to the blouse and boxers for me, though.

New Year's Resolutions

Typically, I don't believe in New Year's resolutions. I've always found that they reinforced my feelings of failure as I inevitably, like most people, fail to meet them, adhere to them, whatever. I flop out big time. Be it weight loss, be a better person, quit cussing, exercise more....yada, yada, yada. You know the spiel. By Febuary, March latest, its all dust and dreams and pint of ice cream in front of a chick flick on TV.

I don't know if it's an age thing, an ADD getting out of control thing, or life is just really confusingly busy thing but I just can'ts seam to focus on my sewing the way I want to. And I really want too! Time just seams to slip into weird little places. Laundry, dishes, and normal housework were always obstacles but were pretty manageable. I keep getting lost in books, movies, even stupid re-runs of re-runs. Worst culprit of all. I'm addicted to watching my son play Assassin's Creed. OMG. It's like watching a movie and getting to participate too! There are even puzzles I get to help the character solve. It is a blackhole for time wasteage and I can't seam to walk away.

Culpability is in order. I need structured and order to get the sewing back on track. Journaling it should be a huge help, as it was before. Some sewing-related activity for at least 15 minutes daily. Be it sewing, cutting, setting up the project, researching a process. Something related to the process of sewing will be accomplished daily. Checking outthe activity on Pattern Review again. I have a very large collection of patterns to work thru and a stash I no longer have room to add to. Further incentive to kick it in gear. I have all these great clothes in my head I need to get them in my closest!


To that purpose I have begun a project. Simplicity 2501:

I've had it in "my collection" for a long time. From one of Joann's $1.00 sales, I'm sure. It's one of those muli-cup patterns eliminating the need for an FBA.

I have cut out view D, like featured in the picture and am using this fabric:

also from one of Joann's sales. A polyester charmeuse of creamy white, tans, black, and purples.

I just love the colors in it. I have several disparate pieces in my wardrobe and was working last year on trying to tie them together. This will work nicely with the purple pencil skirt, black flaired skirt and tan gored skirt that I made last year trying to work in some neutrals and solids. I also have a pair of brown slacks and cream slacks.

So, I'm off to sew.... Happy sewing all

No Mo' Babies, Baby

What a lovely weekend but its coming to an end. So many things are coming to an end this weekend. "My Baby" celebrated his 20th birthday. Adulthood. It sounds so simple. Childhood is completely abandoned; there is no more 'teen left. There is only that large undeniable 2 in the decade column. Granted, this is the offspring with Asperger's and ADHD still struggling to find a job and a place in life post-graduation last May and very unlikely to change his address anytime in the foreseeable future. The number 20 in connatation to birthdays still symbolizes much.

He is no longer a child, albeit my child til my last breath, he is now an adult. I am a woman of grown children. No more babies. No more children to raise. They're all grown. Starting their lives as adults. My role as guiding parent, sun to their planet is no longer valid. I am no longer their ultimate authority, their ultimate champion, the giver of all food, love, attention, direction....all those myriad jobs that parents simply do every waking moment.

As the parent of grown children, I find its more important to be a supportive role in their burgeoning life. Whatever it is they need now, I as their parent, will still try to provide. Support for their decisions, cheering squad to their successes, encouragement to get through those tough times. I can help with laundry, research on the 'net for that term paper, babysit the grandson at the last minute, and cheer at the rugby match.

My son' s life may not change simply because his age has reached a numerical value his abilities and maturity can't begin to match and my efforts to help him acheive a "normal, produtive life" continue unchanged. We still seek gainful employment, purpose to our days, meaningful relationships with others. Those goals remain unchanged from grade school for him, for my whole family. Mommy may now be Mom and Grammy, but she is still needed.......

Reading: Skylight Confessions

s

It's snowing here on Bittersweet Lane, as it is in much of the country. Not terribly deep or even treacherous but a lovely old-fashioned thorough dusting. Just enough that our rural school system cancelled classes leaving Mr. B home. As great luck would have it, Child 3 and 4 (Miss Belle and Mr Mike) and I all have the day off as well. We all slept in like bears then ate leisurely breakfasts. There's nothing cozier than sipping hot, fragrant coffee while watching the snow fall. The whole world seemed quiet and hushed by the blanket of snow. Mr. B put some lovely music on and we both indulged in coffee and novels for half the morning!

I had started reading Alice Hoffman's Skylight Confessions several days ago and finished it this morning -- mopping the tears from my face the whole time! I enjoy Ms. Hoffman's magical realism emmensely but find that some of her novels can get a little formulaic. This one was fresher, though darker, dealing with much darker emotions and family dynamics. Themes of depression, death, and family and oft asked question of what does family consist of are dealt with in her usual shimmering way--changing and evolving as the book progresses. Good, fun read and good cry. Now I think I smell Miss Belle's chocolate chip cookies coming out of the oven.

I Should Have Listened to Cookie Monster

I love cookies. I love cookies the way this guy does--shoveling them in as fast as I can crunch 'em up with crumbs flying everywhere. Somewhere along the way, though, I lost that inborn knowledge that every kid has: there is no such thing as a bad cookie.

As an adult with more sophisticated tastes and cook with stronger skills, I became a cookie snob. The only really "good" cookies were homemade from scratch. Sure, we indulge in the efforts of those famous elves and can lick 'n dump with the Trump like everyone else. But those don't count. It's like eating burgers for supper on the fly--it's food, technically but who views it as "good food".

Reform came to my house in the guise of a fundraiser. As a teacher, Mr. Bittersweet is often persuaded by students to help their cause. Mr B is the biggest cookie hound I know and I strongly suspect that fundraiser had his name as chief target on it. After spending that much on cookie dough, I wasn't about to let it rot in the fridge. I made some up for the grands. They loved them. (So did the quality control inspector who visited the kitchen.) I made up some more tonight while dinner cooked as a treat for a job well-done in the garden. So fast. So easy. Only what we needed for a small treat without all those others calling out to be eaten, too, so no guilt. I'm sold! I'm reformed! Those coupons for cookie mixes and dough will no longer be relegated to trade. Cookie Monster has the right idea--just enjoy!!!!